Category Archives: Peace Corps Romania

It’s a small world after all..

I just received a very interesting email. As those of you who have been following this blog know, I used to be a Peace Corps volunteer in Uzbekistan, and now I am a Peace Corps volunteer in Romania. Now for me, my exit from the country, though emotionally rough, was handled via a few days at a nice hotel in Tashkent and a plane ticket outta there. For some others, though, the situation was quite different. After the Uzbek government’s ruthless crackdown in the city of Andijan, many Uzbeks fled to Kyrgyzstan seeking asylum from the very murderers who had slaughtered their friends, family and townspeople. For the past two months, the refugees have been living in a state of limbo, unsure of their future; while officials in Tashkent continue to call for their extradition, other powerful forces, including international human rights organizations, have been protecting them from this fate. A return to Uzbekistan would signal for these individuals, at the very least, constant police harassment (greater than that to which ordinary law abiding citizens are already subject,) and more likely, beatings, torture or even death.

So I was overjoyed to hear the following news: Romania has just agreed to offer “temporary refuge” to the 400+ Uzbek refugees. To read the announcement, please Click Here. I am not entirely sure what the temporary refuge tag means, but I am well satisfied that this is a better place for the Uzbek refugees than Kyrgyzstan, itself a fragile nation. No doubt there are larger less altruistic moves behind this move. A speaker from the American Embassy here who talked to our training group told us that just recently the Romanian president called for a Bucharest, London, Washington axis. At the same time, this country is slated to join the European Union in 2007. So some international good will certainly won’t hurt either of these initiatives. I will follow this story and post updates here as they emerge.

As regards to life here in Râºnov, things move on. Romania is a strange place. While zoning out in language class today, I was pondering just what has been troubling me about the place for these past two months. I’ve come to conclude (and of course this will probably change with time,) that Romania is caught up in a great existential crisis. This is a country neither here nor there, trapped between a rural, homey, nationalistic past and a modern, global, high tech future. Each pole has its obvious advantages and drawbacks. There is something charming about old Romania – bunicas (grandmothers) wrapped up with layers of clothes trundling to the local piata (open air market) to haggle over fruit — the endless cooking in home kitchens, which become the hub of family life — a pace that leaves time for things to unfold as they will… But for the younger generation, while perhaps a romantic notion, it is one best fit for photography and festivals. The future they seek is not so Rockwellian, rather it is a European, or perhaps even global one. Travel, cars, phones, clothes, things, things, money, things!

And having only emerged from 45 years of brutal Communist rule in 1989, hugely fundamental disagreements remain as to what constitutes progress. At the summer camp I went to last week, the wife of one of the Romanian teachers was talking with us, and mentioned that she preferred life under the Communists. Being the good American I am, I was quite surprised to hear this. Why? we asked. The reason was simple. Back then, she said, the differences between ordinary people, her friends, family and town members, were not great. Now, she continued, class inequity surrounded her at every step, and the resulting stratification of society based on material wealth has left her feeling alienated. Truly, this is a tragic consequence of progress.

And though I can’t really ever understand how it feels to be there, I can see what she refers to every day. Walk down the street and some people are pushing their old cars from the 1970’s while others speed around them in the latest Volvo SUVs. And that’s just a very visible example. For the next two years while I’m here, I’ll have the chance to explore this in greater depth. Though I’ll be living in what’s considered one of the country’s most cosmopolitan cities, I’ll have access to friends serving in less fancy areas. Just how big is the urban/rural divide here, and how does each side to this debate view the other? In a time when nothing is taken for granted, (corporate sponsored school textbooks – Patriot Acts – the Right nation under God J.C. – gay marriage – terror – terror – terror,) what’s a country like Romania to do?

Thus I enter this existential fray, coming first from a place locked in a very different kind of battle, and before that, a great country uncertain about what it stands for anymore. I’m sure that the threads of these tapestries intertwine more so than I can even imagine yet, and that to untangle one from the others is an exercise in futility. But that doesn’t mean that comprehension is an impossible task. No, rather comprehension is a constant process of learning, one for which I feel well prepared.

La revedere,

Romaniac

Well, it has been quite a while since the last update, so there is much to report.

First of all, I feel that I’ve not really been saying much about Romania. In all honesty, for the first few weeks here, I was not really here, instead still very much in Uzbekistan. But it has been over a month, and though its been difficult, I’m now more ready than ever to commit myself to Romania for two years.

I am writing this post from inside one of the two schools at which I will be teaching. This past weekend, all the volunteers from this group gathered to meet their counterparts. Just yesterday, I traveled with them to what will be, beginning August 5th, my new (new new new new …) home.

Here is a map breakdown:

The first map should be helpful because is shows Romania in relationship to not only the rest of Europe, but also Central Asia. The second map shows exactly where my new city, Targu Mures, is located. As you can see, the city sits right in the middle of Transylvania. The pictures of the schools should give you and idea of how old they are. I’ve heard from many people that these two schools are the best in the city and well respected throughout the country.

So really, pretty much everything here is different than Uzbekistan. Let’s start with the banal – weather. Whereas in Uzbekistan, summertime meant no rain, here it’s rained nearly every day. And I’m not talking about a drizzle, but intense rains. In fact, yesterday, once I arrived at what will be my host family for the first two months here, it hailed. Sadly, this has meant that much of Romania is flooding, causing huge damages.

Culturally, Romania is also very different from Uzbekistan. I am going to need more time for a thorough analysis of this issue, but what I can say is that there are a lot of different influences flowing through this society. For instance, although most of the country is made up of Romanians, there is a substantial Hungarian minority. In fact, in my city, the breakdown is about 60-40. This means, on a larger scale, that I’ll get access to not just one, but two distinct cultures, and, on a smaller scale, that I’ll have to learn a little Hungarian in addition to Romanian… There is also a large Gypsy population throughout the country. I will write more about the Gypsies here later.

In regards to language, Romanian is complex but logical. For instance, all nouns have a gender, and plurals follow only loose rules. But, my Latin background (4 years in HS) is giving me a bit of the boost; it’s hard, but for the most part, it makes sense. I have higher expectations of myself regarding learning this language than I did in Uzbekistan.

What I can say so far is that this country is full of extremes and contradictions. For instance, the other day when I had to go to the train station with another volunteer from my training town, as I opened the gate to my house, I saw here coming up the street in a carutsa. A carutsa is a horse drawn wooden carriage – and a common site outside of most of the major cities here. Just the previous day, though, I was taken shopping with my family. We went to a place called Sellgros, which was on the outskirts of a nearby city. The store was much like a Costco or Sam’s Club; it had everything (including an impressive liquor display,) and everything was in bulk. It was packed with not only products ready to be consumed, but also consumers.

Walking down the streets, everyone looks amazing – funky outfits, gelled hair, the latest, greatest, and most annoying cell phones. But we’ve been told by numerous people, that often this exterior glamor comes at the cost of a poorly stocked refrigerator at home. So it’s difficult to understand – how much of what I see really is? and where does priority lay for different individuals? I hope that as I explore the history of this place (and man, there’s lots of it,) that I will better come to understand where this society is now, and in what ways it views its future.

As the general English level here is much higher, I’m beginning to feel that my work will be more rewarding for me as a teacher, and that I’ll be able to get into the complex issues, debates and modes of artistic expression that help shape an informed modern citizen. Though I must admit, the immediacy of need here does not feel as great, and I still think of the young Uzbeks who have few if no alternative avenues to learn about the world beyond their borders. But life is a trade off, a compromise. Here I am and I can do it.

From Romania,

Tadpoles and Trams

Quick update. Today we started practicum, so I got to stand in front of some kids and teach. It went quite well, but I can’t fool myself. The students who come for this practicum have voluntarily decided to forgo two lazy summer weeks and take English classes. Though it isn’t as accurate a representation of school life as the UZ practicum (we had practicum during the school year,) it is nonetheless fun. The students in the high school aged group mostly were very good in English. I had them interview each other and present to the class. It was my covert method of finding out what they are interested in. I’ve found that blanket questions addressed to the entire class, such as, “what do you want to study?” tend to produce nothing but blank stares. I’ll also be able to view my new colleagues as they teach, which should be fun – hopefully I’ll pick up some new methods for round 2.

Also, I was able to speak to another transfer volunteer today. His situation was an evac from China because of SARS after 1 year of service. It was so great to finally talk about transfer specific issues and get some support. What’s even nicer is that he decided to come himself, and wasn’t at all prodded by PC. Still it is a bit of a drag, but whatever, I’ve just got to keep going with it. Email updates keep trickling in from other former UZ-18’ers, and though the disappointment is still palpable, it does not seem like anybodies life has come to a screeching halt; in fact most have been re-assigned, are going through PST again, or have moved on with life.

This past weekend I went hiking with some of the other volunteers at my site. It was about a three and a half hour hike (after a 45 minute loop…) to a small resort ski town. It was a perfect day for the hike, cool, with the sun coming in and out of the clouds. The surroundings here are so different than Uzbekistan and are more like back home. The forests are tall and dark and dense, just beautiful. Once we arrived at the town we had some mici (grilled meat) and beer before hiking it back. I can’t wait till the winter because this is a skiing country! Now the problem will be finding the money to do so 😛 Just doing little things like that are proving to be very beneficial. I think we have some in country trips coming up, but I’m not sure. The more to do the better.

Tuna Salad

The previous entry was a little morose and confused. Although I certainly do not want to back away from that… it was genuine, I think it time to post an update. The past few days here have seen things get better. There is one story in particular that I’d like to share.

I brought a lawn chair outside to read a book. As I was sitting there I hear a scratching noise by the main gate to my host (gazda) family’s house. I didn’t think much of it, and ended up going to the store and buying a few things. Well later in the day I’m back to the book and again I hear the noise, scratch scratch on metal. This time I want to get to the bottom of it so I head over to the gate and locate the source. From what I can tell, some kind of animal had become trapped in the gutter pipe. So I bring my flashlight down from my room and prop the ladder up to the roof. I shine the light in the pipe and… nothing! The animal had obviously retreated in fear of my presence. But I knew it was in there and trapped. So, luckily without my gazda family seeing, I dissasemble the pipe. I give it a little shake, and out from the bottom comes a little bird. It flew away chirping.

This little incident had a great impact on me. If I had not been there, that little bird would most likely have died in the pipe.

That and the fact that things have been improving on other fronts. I feel like I’m more part of the group – if not the entire group than at least those individuals in my satelite town. Language is difficult, but conceptualy it makes perfect sense. It’s finaly becoming sunny and the weather is delighful for a beer or two in a nearby outside cafe with some of the group. In a week, I’ll again start teaching (the practicum,) so perhaps with that I’ll feel even more like I’m doing something positive.

So all in all, I think I’ll stick it out. Don’t be fooled, though, it’s not yet completely right and I’m not here 100%. But, I’m here more than I was a few days ago, and I think I’ve reached a level at which I can continue throughout PST #2. This is a big step forward, and I can only hope that things continue on track. Thanks you all,

And it rains…

It has been a strange week. For our last few days in Uzbekistan, Peace Corps (perhaps out of pitty,) put us up in a 4 star hotel in Tashkent. I was able to re-connect with my friends from PST and spend some quality time over good food food and good beer. Although we were in the big city, something I had been looking forward to, the whole event was tinged with a mixture of sadness, anger, and confusion. What to do when you you’ve spent three months learning a very foreign culture and then another two actualy working within it? How to say good bye to those people who had taken you in as family and welcomed you as friends? What to make of your experience? Success, failure – Interruped Service – who’s to blame?

So I check the news today and the future seems dire for Uzbekistan. Experts say that further destabilization is likeley and words such as: bloody, rebellion, unrest, civil war and others are thrown into the mix. What to think about the families who are just trying to get by and get ahead? Who will have to pay and will there be any winners or will everyone lose at least in the short term? All unanswerable, only conjecture.

So these thoughts race through my head as I’m trying to process yet another new culture, yet another new language, yet another group of 60 plus Americans. It’s too much but there is no turning back. I’m coming to the realization that I can only talk about Uzbekistan here for so long before I become just another PC Romania volunteer. Not that that is a bad thing, but it just leaves me thinking about what exactaly those last five months were. I wouldn’t give them away for anything but what do I take from it?

Its raining today in Transylvania, and I went out for a beer with a few of the boys from my language class this afternoon. So far another very smart group. I’m Matt number 3. My host mother is a kindly woman, poor but talking to me nonstop in Romanian. Maybe I’ll understand one day. Tomorrow I go see the rest of the group again at hub. It will be all right.