Category Archives: Peace Corps Romania

Happy Trails

Here’s an odd one for the books. This weekend I visited my original host family in Risnov. This trip entailed traveling through the Brasov train station. The Brasov train station is the epitomy of Communist-style architecture. It is big, and while it ought to thus be airy, it has the feel of a bunker. It is ugly from the outside, and even more depressing on the inside. As is typical with Romania in general, what’s inside is a total mixed bag, some modern technology and some ancient and broken holdovers. So, although I don’t like it, I’ve gotten used to the place – it is a well traveled hub.

This first picture shows a particular angle of the interior of the station. Note the three advertisements on the wall.

Okay, an ugly wall and some billboards, simple.

Yesterday THIS is there:

I’ve pointed out the outlines of the three billboards from the previous shot. As you can see, the outline of the middle billboard does not completely cover this portrait. Thus, it would seem that if this portrait had been there the entire time, the top would have been sticking out. Based on the original black and white, this does not seem to be the case, although I can’t be sure without more evidence.

Off frame there was some scaffolding, as it appeared that workers were in the process of replacing the ads. This only leaves me wondering where the Ceausescu portrait came from, and why in the world it was up there for all the world to see? I would think that to have the smiling countanance of the country’s infamous dictator and wife on dislplay like that would be an outrage to the average Romanian citizen, but nobody seemed to notice. As they say, “asa e Romanul.”

Drum Bun

Keeping Up Appearances

So a few days ago I am doing a load of dishes in the kitchen. When I’m finished, I go to wash my hands in the bathroom and notice that the entire floor is covered in about an inch of water. It seemed that all the (dirty greasy) water that had gone down the kitchen sink ended up here. Darn. So, this entailed a call to my landlord. Now, although landlord is usually synonymous with trouble, I am quite lucky. My landlord is an old retired man. Although the apartment technically belongs to his son, the father manages everything.

The next day he comes over with a spool of cable, gets down on his knees in the bathroom, and tries to unclog the mess himself. It doesn’t work. So, after admonishing me not to take a shower, he vows to return the next day with a plumber. The next day he does indeed show up with a plumber, and this plumber is a typical plumber: big, overalls, dirty, friendly. He takes apart the bathroom sink, does some heavy duty plunging, sticks a few cables down the drain, and about half an hour later comes up with an absolutely rank looking conglomeration of hairballs, congealed grease and toenail clippings. After this victory, he takes a look at the kitchen sink and replaces the old piping with a new flexible hose. All is well. I shake hands with the both of them and bid them adeiu.

An hour later, all is calm, and I am reading on my balcony, enjoying the fine weather. Buzz!, someone is at my door. An un-announced buzz means one of three things: Gypsy salesperson, man/woman coming to read the electric/water meters, or my landlord. I assume its him and I’m right. He has with him a little bag of cleaning products, and proceeds into the kitchen. Taking out a product called “Axion,” he dabs a bit on a sponge and begins scouring the sink. Apparently during his previous visit he concluded that I was not keeping the sink as clean as he would like. As he continues scrubbing away at the sink, I attempt to join in, but really its only a one person job. So, I just leave him be and continue to read on the balcony.

About a half hour later I come back inside and find that he has moved to the bathroom and is scrubbing the tub. He is pretty much finished, and at that point I get a short lecture about how I should keep the kitchen and bathroom cleaner. It’s not mean-spirited, but as I had been warned by my counterpart to humor him, I smile and nod and promise to keep everything more sparklinger. Before he leaves, additional notice of displeasure is given regarding my collection of shoes adjacent to the front door. A mess, he exclaims, in mock frustration, too many shoes! So I put a few of them away in a little closet and at this he is quite satisfied. I promise again to keep things cleaner in the future and he leaves satisfied.

A minute later comes the customary follow-up buzz; he always forgets something and has to come back for it. This time it is his watch. I grab it, open the door and hand it right to him. We laugh a little and he departs once again.

Party Time

It has been an exciting week here in Romania. Firstly, school has come to a close. Yes, one year down and I have survived! I am very proud of myself, and looking back on this past year, it has been quite an experience.

The tradition here in Transylvania is for the graduating seniors and all teachers who worked with them to have a big party. We’re not talking about soda and cookies in a classroom here, rather a full-blown promesque experience. (Thankfully, this time around it was a better experience….) Since I currently work at two schools, I was invited to two different parties, on two consecutive nights. So as you can imagine, it was a fun week.

The first party was held by the Hungarian school and took place in a large restaurant. I was floored when I entered the building, because this place was opulent, wedding quality. The hall was huge (I’ve learned that it is a renovated canteen from a now defunct nearby factory complex,) and lavishly decorated. Students and teachers sat at large round tables, and we were treated to a three course meal and dancing. What I enjoyed particularly about this first party was a tradition where all the teachers stood in a giant semi-circle with a cup of champagne. The students, with their own cups, filed by, clinking and saying “cheers” with each and every one of us. Then, after all the students had gone by (30 minutes later,) the teachers at one end of the semi-circle started following the path of the students, and we began clinking with one another. I found it to be a most collegial exercise. That party went on till 5 AM, so I hear, but I was out by 2.

The following night was the Romanian school’s party. This one took place in the restaurant/banquet facilities of a large hotel in the city center. Although upon first glance the setting was far less opulent, this party turned out to be even better. The main difference was that the teachers had their own room. I had to laugh a little when I noticed that the tables were set up in a U pattern. This is worth noting because this style seems to be popular in many official Romanian settings (including our teacher’s room at the school.) The most important people sit at the head of the U and the rest of us further out to the edges. Therefore, being at an end of the U usually guarantees one a better time.

Things got off to a quick start as the waiter came through the room with a fine selection of alcohol. About an hour into the evening, after our first course, the special guests arrived. Two musicians, a violinist and an accordionist, began, to much fanfare, playing traditional Romanian festivity music. And I must say, what fun it was. Everyone was singing along, smiling, and having a good time – traits rare in the day to day running of the school. In addition to the wild entertainment, I had some great conversations with other teachers, both familiar ones and a few with whom I had been wanting speak but had yet to find a proper platform. A few other teachers also approached me, being less inhibited (and more inclined to try their English,) after a few drinks. It was a fantastic evening.

Other positives are that the weather has warmed up and the fruits are out in full force. Currently starring at the local piatas are cherries and strawberries. All are locally grown, and thus quite inexpensive. A kilogram of strawberries costs about one dollar. So, I am finding myself with more time to spend reading on my balcony with a bowl of fresh fruit by my side. Of course there is lots more on tap for the summer, but I’ll save that for the next update.