Category Archives: Peace Corps Uzbekistan

Korean Fish and Lehrter Bahnhof

I just have to make this post. So last night Peace Corps put us up in a hotel nearby the office here in Tashkent. Since the place we stayed at during our counterpart conference was kind of a dump (or as I dubbed it, Soviet Nouveau,) I was not expecting much. Thankfully, such was not the case. After a wonderful dinner at a place called the Greenhouse – where we sat in a wooden teepee – I headed over to the place. My supposed roomate had already checked in, but the guys at the front desk decided to give me my own room. Hey what the heck, I’m certainly worth it. I walk into the room and it is clean, the bathroom is not nasty, AND is stocked with western style toilet paper. To my dear little Peace Corps self this was quite the victory.

The next plesant surprise came when I turned on the little TV mounted on a shelf – Cable! But I was tired and went to bed. Turns out I wake up at 5 in the morning today, so I turn on the TV and flip through the channels. This is big time, folks: BBC World, CNN, Cartoon Network, Discovery Channel, an English language German station and an English language South Korean station. So I spent a few hours blissfully in bed watching TV.

Now I must mention something here. Of course the cable lineup offered the standard Uzbek fare – i.e. the state run channels. So, after watching the incredibly slick German station’s newscast for a while, I flip over to 1TV, the gem of the Uzbek broadcast system. From the polished news anchor in modern Berlin I’m transported to the image of an 84 year old Uzbek woman, with about 2 teeth total, playing her little round drum. It’s amusing, and the contrast is still registering in my mind, so I stick with it. After she finishes playing her drum, it’s time for her to sing – yep, I said it, sing. Now imagine an 84 year old woman singing a song best performed by a much younger artist. On some of the high notes (dear old thing,) it sounded like she was being mauled by a pack of wild dogs – – I could not help but laugh.

Other TV experiences included the Jetsons in Russian (yes, the opening theme song was also in Russian,) a man in Africa feeding a giraffe from his 2nd floor bedroom window, plenty of info on the Michael Jackson trial and a touching story about children sans limbs on News Night with Aaron Brown. To top it all off, a delicious all you can eat buffet breakfast was included.

I know, to you folks back in the US or other 1st world countries, this hardly sounds like somthing to inspire great joy. But after three months here it was very well appreciated. And now I’m off, wish me luck.

Green Light

Good News!

I have received a visa from the Republic of Uzbekistan. This means that I am now able to go out to my site! In fact, I’m writing this from the Peace Corps office in Tashkent. Tomorrow, at 9 a.m, I will leave for my permanant site by taxi.

So, last night and this morning I said goodbye to my family in Chinobod. I will certainly miss them and the comforts that came with living there. Although I will not miss the toilet, which another volunteer dubbed as the “nastiest he’d seen,” I will miss the good food, the hands off treatment, and the moments of family bonding. That said, I’m pretty sure that time spent at my next family will be as, if not more enjoyable.

I expect to be met by the Director of the primary school at which I will be working when I arrive tomorrow, so let’s hope I make a positive impression. Here we go again…

3 Moments

Here are a few selections from my journal on all things Uzbek:

Funny:

My host father, Furkat, is a pretty manly man. So I’m in the front seat of the car, he’s driving, and my little host brother is in the back seat. We are going to Tashkent so that F can conduct some kind of businesses (the fewer questions asked the better I’ve learned.) My window is rolled up. We are pulling into a gas station to fill up. This big bug materializes on the inside of the windshield. It’s kind of like a flying daddy long legs. Wanting it out of the car, I roll down my window and prepare to shoo it out. But before I can do so, Furkat, as he’s pulling up to the pump, reaches up with his fist bunched and smushes it. After doing so there is a little streak on the windshield, and he just wipes his hand off like nothing happened. I’m laughing for five minutes and the group of guys selling lottery tickets at the gas station laugh and smile back at me.

Sad:

So I’m in Chirchik and it is about 7:00 pm on a Thursday night. I’m standing by the main taxi stand waiting for another volunteer to arive. The geography of this area consists of two squares bisected by a pretty major road. On one side a large ornate set of stairs and the other a square with many cafes and little shops. This is the point at which people cross the street. As I’m standing there, I notice a little boy holding the hand of an older man and leading him across the street. What catches my eye is that the man is so drunk he can barely walk. You know when you get drunk and walking is more a sequence of staggering steps rather than a fluid movement? Well he was like that. The boy, ostensibly his son, led him across the street and into the darkness, to what I can only hope is a loving home.

Random:

My family goes all out the other night by buying chicken! Chicken, though readily available here in Uz, is quite expensive. We sit down a half hour before diner and I decide that because they are busting out the chicken, I’ll bust out the Baltika. Now, to those of you who have not been in these here woods, Baltika is Russian beer. As with most consumer products, the quality of Russian goods is far superior to their Uzbek equivilents. So the Fster and I sit around and knock off about four bottles of good strong dark beer – we’re feeling just fine. Then the chicken emerges and it is delicious. As we are eating the chicken and finishing off the beer, the TV is blaring out Outkast and Snoop Dog music videos. An odd combination for sure, only to be found in, the Twiligh Uzbekistan.

All Clear in Uzbekistan

Dear Friends,

All is well here in Uzbekistan despite the current events unfolding in neighboring Kyrgyzstan. In my town, day to day life continues as usual as far as I can tell. Although it appears that none of the physical unrest will spill over into Uzbekistan, my concern is regarding the long term ramifications of this event. The UZ govt, which has already proven difficult for the Peace Corps to deal with, may use this event as yet another reason to look upon us with suspicion. Hopefully this will not jeopardize the Peace Corps program in this country, but regardless it will have an effect, as many ethnic Uzbeks live in Kyrgyzstan and visa versa. Be assured, though, that PCUz is carefully looking after this issue. We did receive word from our Country Director that he is in touch with the people he needs to be in touch with, and that information will be provided to us as it becomes available.

On another note, thanks for all the feedback on the last post. Check out the comments section for WD’s personal responses to all of you who were so kind to share your thoughts.

Interesting times,

Big News

Dearest Readers of WorkingDefinition,

A few things:

1st – Pictures from Uzbekistan have been placed in the photo gallery section. Enjoy! When you click on a thumbnail, you’ll see a medium sized version. This should be fine for most images. However, if you’d like to download the image in its full size (usually a little bigger,) click the icon that shows a floppy disk in front of a folder to the right of where you can rate the photo. I didn’t have time to add captions, but will happily answer any questions on the photos.

2nd – I have received my site placement. As of April 5th, I will be living in the Qashqadaryo (Kash – ka – dar – i – o) region, in a town south of Shakrisabz. This should be a unique challenge, as I hear from other current volunteers that this is one of the most challeging regions in the entire country.

3rd – Dreams. Of late there have been a few re-occuring themes. I’d love to share, and given that this is my blog, I think I shall. The two major themes, which really come as no great surprise, are people and travel. I recall an interesting dream where I was in some cold remote castle like structure with people from high school. Venturing outside, I found that there were railroad tracks that ran beside, and under the building. I peered over a ledge at the tracks below, but was scared that I’d fall, so I retreated. Then somehow I found myself near a platform as the train rushed by. I recall the locomotive bearing the insignia of the New Haven Rail Road, the first two cars were old passenger ones and the rest of the train was freight.

That’s it for that first one. In others, less memorable, people, both those I’ve known, and others, who I only know by their faces, re-appear in different situations. They are either part of a large group in which I find myself, or chatting away with attractive people of the opposite sex.

Another particularly interesting development in my dream life is that of the double wake-up. I’m sure you are all familiar with being in a dream which you want out of and willing yourself to wake up. This usually works for me, but of late instead of waking up, I am cast into a 2nd dream. This 2nd dream at first resembles my surroundings had I indeed awaken, but is not quite right and quickly becomes stranger and stranger until I am forced to bail out again. What’s interesting about this phenomenon is that instead of happening now and then, this is the rule rather than the exception.

So junior scouts, care to analyze my situation?

Thanks for keeping up!